Hiking the Tongariro Crossing – without question New Zealand’s most popular day hike. During peak season in 2019, the Tongariro Crossing was completed by up to 3,000 hikers per day – crazy!
So, we asked ourselves why is hiking the Tongariro Crossing so popular, and does it live up to it’s great reputation? Is it worth doing, is it overrated, and should you be adding it to your New Zealand itinerary?
Hiking the Tongariro Crossing:
Where is it?
Mangatepopo Carpark, Mangetepopo Road, Ruapehu District, Manawatu-Whanganui, New Zealand
Red Crater, Taupo District, Waikato, New Zealand
Blue Lake, Taupo District, Waikato, New Zealand
Ketetahi Carpark, Ketetahi Road, Taupo District, Waikato, New Zealand
Tongariro Alpine Crossing is the main track in Tongariro National Park. It’s perfectly located in the middle of the NZ’s North Island. It’s closest major hubs are the lake town of Taupo, or the smaller town of Ohakune. Whakapapa Village is closest to the beginning of the crossing, but this is very small with mostly just accommodation for visitors to stay at before or after visiting the park.
How long is it?
19.4km or 12 miles. This usually takes hikers between 6-8 hours to complete, and its a one way track. The hike doesn’t actually take you directly up any mountain, but it traverses through an active volcano region. The walk provides views of the 3 iconic mountains of Tongariro National Park – Ruapehu, Tongariro and Mt Ngauruhoe. You might recognise the last of these as the famous Mt Doom from Lord of the Rings!
When is the best time to visit?
A very good question because the Tongariro Alpine Crossing weather is a lottery to say the least. It can snow on the crossing even in summer!
Snow, wind and rain all cause major difficulties on the track, and often cause it to be shut down. New Zealand’s DOC recommends unguided hikers attempt the crossing during “summer season” classed as November – April, but this does NOT guarantee the weather at all.
On our visit during peak summer, in February 2022, we tackled 70km/h winds at the highest point of the track with next to no visibility – heavily relying on our walking poles and keeping a low centre of gravity to not, quite literally, get blown into the crater!
A study by Harvest Alarms found that out of 180 days on the crossing, it rained for 92 of these – every 2nd day.
The weather is notorious for changing fast! On the track you’ll see many warnings as you pass each section asking you to review the weather, and your physical condition, before you continue on. Be sure to pack appropriately with both wet weather and warm clothing to be ready for any eventuality – as you will probably experience them all whilst completing the crossing!
Why is it so popular?
I think the answer to this is threefold.
Firstly, the location of the hike. Being centrally located on the North Island means the hike can be easily accessed by visitors within 4 hours, on average, from every corner of the island.
In addition to this, most New Zealand tours and buses pass through Taupo which means that international tourists can easily add this into their itinerary when exploring New Zealand, without the need for an expensive detour!
Secondly, the walk is easy-moderate. This means for someone new to, or without experience in hiking it is still very achievable. Don’t get me wrong you will get out of breath on the Devil’s Staircase, slip down the scree and ache the next morning but almost anyone could get through it. Many families embark on the track as a rite of passage to introduce their children to full day hikes by completing the Tongariro Crossing.
And finally, Tongariro National Park has a truly incredible landscape. First you meander through the remnants of a prehistoric volcanic battlefield, steeped in Maori legend. As you make your way through the Red Crater, you could be mistaken for thinking you’ve been transported to Mars. Shortly after, the track passes the famous volcanic lakes, in vibrant shades of green and blue. Lastly, you descend into the bush once again, welcomed by the familiarity of Earth.
Ultimately the landscape is out of this world. It’s something that you won’t find anywhere else on the planet, and this is probably the number 1 reason why the alpine crossing is so popular.
How to get to the start of the track?
To get to the start of the track there are many companies offering shuttles from various locations. Whether you’re based in Taupo, Ohakune or Whakapapa village, there will be a shuttle bus able to pick you up and take you to the start of the track at Mangatepopo Road.
You will also require a shuttle once you finish the track too. Most companies offer a return service and will take you back to where you were picked up from.
If you’re staying locally in Whakapapa Village then the shuttles run every hour, so try to time finishing your walk with picking up your ride.
Tongariro National Park’s best day hike: Tama Lakes
As previously mentioned, Tongariro National Park is full of unique geological formations, out of this world terrains and is absolutely worth a visit. However, our favourite views and most enjoyable hike was not the Tongariro Crossing (having walked it several times now!). We fell in love with Tama Lakes.
Volcanic explosions 10,000 years ago left 6 huge craters dotted between Mt Ngauruhoe and Ruapehu. Today, these craters have filled with vibrant blue water making it an unmissable visit.
How long is it?
Slightly shorter than the Tongariro Crossing at 6-8 hours is the Tama Lakes hike at 5-6 hours. The walk is still 17.6km return, indicating how much easier the trek is to complete than the Tongariro Crossing. The walk starts at Chateau Tongariro, an upmarket accommodation in Whakapapa Village.
The weather on this side of the National Park is far more reliable, and for a summer hike the walk is made even better as there is the beautiful Taranaki Falls just an hour from Whakapapa. Upon arrival at Tama Lakes, it is extremely blustery as the wind is funneled through the Tama Saddle – so do pack your windproof, even on a sunny day!
Taranaki Falls
Snow melting up on the mountains winds down the valley and impressively crashes over Taranaki Falls. This makes it ice cold, but the sheltering cliffs face the sun, and in good weather it is a perfect swimming hole.
As you continue your walk you’re treated to epic views of all 3 mountains, but in particular Mt Ruapehu and Mt Ngauruhoe. Following a clear cut path winding through the volcanic landscape, you gradually climb up and over the foothills. It certainly isn’t as steep as the renowned Devil’s Staircase on the Tongariro Crossing.
After around 2 hours you reach the turn off for the Tama Lakes. If you were to continue on you would come to one of the huts on the Northern Circuit.
Lower Tama Lake
Tama Lakes has two different viewpoints – Upper and Lower Tama Lake. The Lower Tama Lake is just around 10 minutes after the turn off. You will see brilliant blue and green waters like nothing you have seen before. These are arguably equally impressive to the Emerald and Blue Lakes on the crossing, with less foot traffic and far less likely to be shrouded in fog!
Once you reach the first lake, at 1,200m, you are rewarded with pretty incredible views with Mount Ruapehu watching over it, but you can see that the only way is up, and on a far more difficult path at that.
Upper Tama Lake
Generally speaking the harder the climb, the more rewarding the views and this is exactly what you can expect in the case of Upper Tama Lake.
After a steep 30 minute scramble on the scree up to the saddle, you follow the ridgeline round to the right for the lake to unveil itself, at 1,314m.
Being directly above the the lake this time, the colours are even more vibrant and enticing. Upper Tama Lake is overlooked by Mt Ngauruhoe to the North, making for a majestic backdrop for your photos.
Tama Lakes vs. Tongariro Crossing
So how does Tama Lakes compare to the Tongariro Crossing?
Its definitely easier. Although being nearly the same distance in kilometres, the Tama Lakes hike is much shorter because it is much easier. Except for the last section climbing the scree, we would classify Tama Lakes as easy, with Tongariro Crossing as intermediate in difficulty.
Tama Lakes is also cheaper. It’s an out and back track meaning no transport is needed, however 2 shuttles are needed to complete the Tongariro Crossing.
The weather at Tama Lakes is much more reliable too, as you don’t gain quite so much elevation compared to the crossing (550m less!). As a result, you are much more likely to get both a great view of the lakes, but also a clear view of the mountains. Unfortunately as mentioned above, with such temperamental weather on the crossing you have no guarantee of seeing the mountains or the lakes. When the cloud sets in, you can complete the entire crossing not knowing you are just metres away from an incredible view!
Our recommendation would be, if you arrive at the National Park and the forecast is not good, go to Tama Lakes! This way, you’ll encounter less people and a higher chance of actually being able to admire the beauty of the National Park.
More promising weather forecast: Tongariro Northern Circuit
There is so much to admire in Tongariro National Park. And how disappointing when you embark on the Crossing and can’t enjoy the unique volcanic landscape because the weather is so poor.
Of course no one can control the weather, that’s why, if you have the time, we would recommend completing the Tongariro Northern Circuit. It’s a 2-4 day hike incorporating the Tongariro Crossing, but completing a loop track around Mt Ngauruhoe so you can admire the mountain from all angles.
A Great Walk of New Zealand
The track is actually one of New Zealand’s 10 Great Walks meaning the path is well maintained and signposted by the Department of Conservation.
When we embarked on this track in February 2022 we completed this route in 3 days and are pleased we did. As a group of 4 relatively fit hikers in our 20s we were significantly quicker than the suggested time by DOC.
And it wasn’t just us! Some people we met in the huts even skipped their next hut booking, to continue on the track to the next hut – they were completing the “4 hour hike” in just 2 hours!
Choose Tongariro Northern Circuit
This hike incorporates the best the Tongariro National Park has to offer including both the Tama Lakes hike and the first 12km of the Tongariro Crossing (in our opinion the best bit)!
It also means that if you are unlucky like us with terrible weather on the crossing, that you can still admire the National Park for another 3 days and still get some magnificent views in other areas of the park.
The huts are well kept and have views of the mountains to die for. There are swimming holes close by too so you can freshen up after each day of hiking!
Is hiking the Tongariro Crossing overrated?
In our opinion, yes.
Does it warrant 3,000 visitors per day in peak season? Not really.
However, I wouldn’t be stopping anyone visiting from overseas from completing it – especially if they’re new to hiking.
It has its positives. It is challenging but achievable for anyone, and the landscape is more akin to an foreign planet than that of Earth.
If you’re incorporating the Tongariro Crossing into your New Zealand trip itinerary, give yourself two days. Spend the better weather day on the crossing, and the other one doing the Tama Lakes hike. You’ll see more of the park and have a better chance at securing that all important Emerald Lake photo.
If you’re an experienced hiker though, I’d give this one a miss totally, there’s certainly better hikes around New Zealand. Do the Tongariro Northern Circuit if you’re visiting the National Park. Or even better, if you want a serious challenge and jaw-dropping views, drive a few hours west and summit Mount Taranaki instead.
Got the bug for wanting to complete more New Zealand Great Walks? Check out our guide to 4 days exploring the Abel Tasman National Park!
